Wonderful Wine

Alluvia, near Stellenbosch, Western Cape, South Africa (where I got engaged ... aahhhh)

One of best things about being from South African is that you grow up with lots and lots of really good affordable wine (and we don't have to wait until the ridiculous age of 21 to start drinking it). The wine growing region in the Western Cape is also incredibly beautiful and is without a doubt my favourite destination in South Africa. I would choose an afternoon on a wine farm over a day at any one of the famous Cape Town beaches, every time. In South Africa we love our own wine so much that I had never really thought about, or tried much wine from anywhere else. It surprises me that many people I've met here in America have no idea that South Africa is a wine producing country. We are the 9th biggest producer of wine, predictably beaten out by France, Italy, Spain, U.S., Argentina, Australia, Chile and Germany.

International wines abound

Living in America has given me the opportunity to sample wine from all these countries, including my own, for about the same price as a bottle from California. Every wine store stocks as much international as local wine and you can buy some great Spanish and South American wines as well as some inexpensive Australian options at Walmart (not in Pennsylvania though). Californian wines are sometimes quite pricey but are usually really good. I have every intention and much desire to visit the famous Napa and Sonoma Valleys but have not yet had the opportunity. Instead I have explored wine where I have lived.

We lived in State College, Pennsylvania for 2 years and only managed to visit the immediate local winery, Mt. Nittany Vineyard & Winery, once. It was quite early on before we had a car, but for our wedding anniversary we took a taxi there and then walked a few miles to catch a bus back (because we spent our return taxi money on wine).

Not a bad way to spend an Anniversary

We had a lovely time there drinking wine by the lake, taking in the fall foliage on the trees that smother Mount Nittany and the distant Tussey Mountain. The setting really is quite delightful but the fact that we never ventured the 7 miles there again, even once we acquired a car, speaks for itself. I quickly understood that places not famous for wine were usually not famous for a reason and why anyone in wet, humid Pennsylvania would even consider making wine is beyond me. That's not to say that I won't pick up a bottle from time to time purely for sentimental reasons (it's not undrinkable) but if you are ever weighing up getting something from PA vs something from CA, I would go with the latter.

White Water Lily

Mt Nittany Winery is not alone in producing wine in Pennsylvania. There are actually 123 wineries in PA, 80% of which arose in the last 30 years and they make Pennsylvania the 7th biggest wine producing State in America. I read that Pennsylvania offers some of the best growing conditions on the East Coast and with all those incredibly 'famous' wine producing regions on the East Coast I'm not really sure what the point is there. But with all my apparent negativity I was still beyond myself with excitement when I discovered that there was a wine festival (featuring only Pennsylvanian wine) at Longwood Gardens. Longwood Gardens, in Eastern Pennsylvania near Philadelphia is one of my favourite destinations in America and is, as they say on their website, one of the greatest gardens in the world. All I can say is that if you can go there, DO!!!!!

A prized Chardonnay

And so we drove for three hours, my dear designated driver husband, my drinking buddy/wine expert, Hanna, and I. While Ivor roamed the gardens, Hanna and I meticulously tasted our way through as many of the wineries as possible in search of a decent PA wine. There were some truly awful wines, some ghastly fruit flavoured specimens, a lot of average table plonk and, thankfully, a reasonable amount of rather decent stuff. I actually bought a number of bottles but have unfortunately now drunken them all and for the life of me I can't remember what they were, so I have no recommendations to share.

Right at the edge of Cayuga Lake

My next wine adventure reminded me why it's always good to make friends with people who live in interesting places. (I'm taking friendship applications from anyone living in Seattle, Crete and Monaco at the moment). A good friend, from upstate New York invited us to a weekend at Cayuga Lake in the Finger Lakes. They are a collection of thin (hence the name Finger) lakes, a beautiful destination and home to more than 100 vineyards. Cayuga is the longest lake and claims to have the first Wine Trail in the United States.
There are 15 Wineries along this trail which have garnered over 5300 national and international medals so I was certainly expecting a treat.

Who needs a GPS?

With a little research our group of 5 University friends decided on which wineries we wanted to visit. We started the day with a tasty picnic prepared by our host's father at Swedish Hill Winery, one of the top award-winning wineries in New York state. It was a good plan to line our stomachs before we set out on the ambitious task of tasting our way through 6 wineries in one afternoon. It was a fantastic day of tastings, I can think of no better way to spend a day. I love everything about a day out like this, from the planning, to the map reading, the careful selection of wines to taste, the scribbled notes which become increasingly unreadable as the day progresses, the ease with which your credit card slides through machine after machine while your load becomes heavier to carry. To me, it's just perfect!

Goose Watch Winery overlooking Cayuga Lake

I found that while this area offers some delightful white wines there was something lacking in many of the reds. Normally I look forward to tasting the more expensive older red wines but as we ventured from winery to winery I became most fond of the incredible dry Riesling. My favourite Winery of the day was Knapp, which is certainly where I spent the most money. It was such an enjoyable day and I fondly remember the humourous way we tried to decide who had bought what, when we unpacked the cases of wine from the car the following morning.

My heart leaps at such a sign

Our most recent wine adventure occurred in our very own Potato State. Yes, hard to believe, but Idaho does in fact make wine, actually good wine. The main wine making region is in the South Western part of the State, nestled between the Rockies and the Snake River and at least it is not humid and rainy like Pennsylvania. They have only been growing grapes in Idaho since the '70's but it is quickly becoming an area of interest.

We took a tour of some of the Wineries with a fellow South African couple. We started our Idaho Wine Experience at the Snake River Winery Tasting Room which is in downtown Boise. The vineyard itself is situated 'in the sticks' in Parma, Idaho (bet no-one's heard of it?) , so it is really convenient to have the classy tasting room / gift shop in an accessible spot. Complimentary tastings also make it all the more inviting. The wine is rather nice but it's also available in most Idaho Supermarkets so it wasn't an undiscovered gem.

I am ever so grateful to designated drivers 

Our next stop was Cinder which is located in Garden City. This venue demonstrated the clear difference between the word 'Winery' and 'Vineyard' which I had, up to this point, thought were interchangeable. We arrived at a warehouse in the most uncharacteristically named town. There is not one breath of green anywhere in 'Garden City' and it's certainly not a city, but rather a mostly forgettable town. We ventured into the warehouse somewhat skeptically but discovered a charming tasting room. We were informed that the grapes are taken from a number of vineyards in the Snake River Valley which allows the winemaker, Melanie Krause to source only the best. The wines were outstanding and the Dry Rose was truly memorable. Well Done Melanie!

Yes, I climbed up there all by myself.

We then headed onto a Boutique Winery & Vineyard, Woodriver Cellars, where we savoured a scrumptious picnic and some of their award winning Malbec. The grounds were beautiful and we indulged in our lunch perhaps a little too long resulting in the chance to visit only 2 other wineries in this area that afternoon. The wine region is fairly spread out and its takes some time to get between these previously unheard of, but now treasured Idaho towns (Nampa, Caldwell, Eagle and Kuna).

Outside Koenig Winery in Caldwell

I love a wine adventure and while none of these places can ever possibly replace my beloved Western Cape I'm certainly glad they are here and I'm really looking forward to some Californian wine adventures later this year.

Oh BOYsee

Oh boy, another  State Capitol

On my list of "5000 places to visit before I get too old, too tired, or too responsible with my money" I can tell you, with absolute authority, you would not have found Boise. One of the compelling reasons for that would be that I'd never even heard of Boise until last year. Another reason could be that, since hearing of the capital of Idaho, the anticipation of a first hand experience failed to conjure up sufficient excitement to actually make me plan a trip. But when some friends planned to visit Boise for a weekend away, and invited us along, I felt that a travel opportunity was knocking and since I'm a sucker for every travel adventure, I opened that door and we found ourselves travelling across Idaho to the capital of our Gem State.

It stands for Experimental Breeder Reactor

Boise (pronounced BOY-see - I know, its looks like a French word but it's pronounced American style) is four and a half hours west of Idaho Falls. We managed to take the 'scenic route', actually an exquisite scenic detour, that doubled the journey time but allowed us to enjoy many interesting side excursions, scenic views and we threw in a few mountain passes just for fun. As we headed out of Idaho Falls we stopped at the EBR1, the first nuclear power plant to generate electricity. It made history by illuminating the nearby town of Arco in 1951. What they neglect to tell you is that, in 1951, it only took four 200-watt light bulbs to illuminate the town. Today the town has grown somewhat, and it now takes 6 odd light bulbs to set the town a-glow. (Note: Arco is still not on my list of 5000 places to visit)

At this scenic overlook we bumped into a Capetonian

We headed north towards Sun Valley, the exclusive ski resort town and stopped for lunch at Sun Valley Brewing which is actually in Hailey. It's interesting to see the affluence in this area with the idyllic lodges, private planes and elite shopping and dining, all reserved for a privilaged handful of people that I doubt reside in Idaho for more than a couple of weeks per year. We drove through the Alexander Ross Pass - I find it's always a treat to take any mountain pass and this one, through the Sawtooth Mountains, did not disappoint. We continued through the uninteresting towns of Stanley and Idaho City (man, there are some seriously dull one-horse towns in Idaho) and finally arrived in Boise in the early evening. Although we could have done the journey in half the time I found our meander through the Sawtooth Mountains and 2 National Forests to be utterly enjoyable and not at all regrettable, even though we drove behind a novice motorcyclist, who took each of the hundred or so horseshoe bends of the single-laned Ponderosa Pine Scenic Route at not more than 4 and a half miles an hour. 

A tree lined downtown street and outdoor cafe

As the capital, Boise is the State's most populous city and probably the only city in Idaho with buildings taller than 3 stories. In fact, they are very proud of the U.S Bank Plaza with its ... staggering ... 20 stories. It stands on Grove Plaza in the centre of the downtown business district. This succinct area is bustling with atmosphere, and I was so impressed by the awesome young energetic vibe and modern, urban feeling of this wonderful little city. There are many delicious restaurants (a delectable find was Proto's, where the pizza is as good as Faccia Luna in State College and Lapa Flo in Joburg), bars (a pear cider comes to mind but I'm not remebering the names of the bars we visited), clubs (we saw 2 great bands) and shops (the record store, like the one in the movie Empire Records, was a highlight). This downtown area is created by a grid of streets that extend outwards from a rather busy central pedestrian area. I find it wonderful to be in a city that values the pedestrian, which is the antithesis of the ubiquitous (and much despised by myself) American drive-through: drive-through food, drive-through coffee, drive-through banking, drive-through pharmacy, drive-through mailboxes and I even found on wikipedia, I kid you not, a drive-through funeral viewing parlour, because getting out of your car to say your last goodbyes to that precious loved one may be too much to ask.

Now that's what I call a tree!

We spent a glorious afternoon riding our bikes along the Green Belt - a lovely park that extends for 22 miles along the Boise River. Of course in that afternoon we didn't cover all 22 miles - it seemed like an awful lot of exercise but I think we only covered 5 miles or so. The reason for this was not only our leisurely speed (yes I was setting pace) but also the fact that it is ridiculously scenic and we couldn't help but stop to take in the views of the river, the many bridges, the towering trees and even some local dogs taking a swim against the surprisingly strong current. Another setback was a sneakily located Brewery along the bike path which was rather too tempting on such a warm summer's afternoon. Although Idaho Falls also has a Green Belt, along the great Snake River no less, I couldn't help feeling a little green with envy as this area in Boise is so expansive, user-friendly, clean and picturesque. I shudder to think that there are probably many local residents who pay gym membership fees to sit on a stationary bike inside a building when they have this on their doorstep.

The brick facade of the Basque Market

I was surprised to find a Basque neighbourhood and even more surprised to discover that Boise is home to one of the largest communities of Basque immigrants in the world. The area is called the Basque Block and consists of restaurants and traditional eateries as well as a museum and cultural centre that preserves the heritage and language through exibts, collections, festivals, classes, and tours. We celebrated this wonderful find with tapas, paella and Spanish wine at the Basque market. I'm thrilled to know that this touch of Europe is only a four and a half hour drive away from my home. Next time I visit here I'll be sure to bring some extra dollars to procure some tapenade, chourizo and some of the many Spanish wines they had on offer. Why is the good stuff always so expensive?

On Wednesdays and Fridays they make Paella at noon on the pavement - conveniently we rolled up at 12.15 on a Friday

On Saturday mornings from 8.30am 8th Street is transformed into the Capital City Public Market. These farmer's markets are found across America and I am so pleased to see locals shopping locally for fresh produce, buying from the person who grew it. This market in Boise is certainly impressive (far better than the local version in Idaho Falls and better too than the Amish one in State College). They have a large selection of potatoes (obviously) as well as all types of fruit, vegetables, meats, fish, breads, cheeses and flowers. There's more to the market than the edible offerings and you can find jewellery, art and handmade crafts, candles, gifts, cards, etc. It makes for a great morning out and even though we only turned up at 11am we managed to visit many stalls, trying, nibbling and perusing without too much procuring - of course you wouldn't want to buy fresh flowers and some bison steaks for your hotel room.

It's a great city, and I must say I'm a little disappointed it's 4 and half hours away but I'm suspecting that Boise will be revisited numerous times while I'm an Idahoian. While I lived in State College it was always great to know that New York City was just 4 and a half hours away and while I'm not quite comparing Boise to the Big Apple, it will be my go-to urban choice for a while and should be on your list of 5000 places to see.

The centre of the city  - Grove Plaza

Die Groot Trek

About 180 years ago my forefathers, or perhaps I should say foremothers (since it was my mother's people) travelled hundreds of kilometers in search of a better life. This mass migration was an epic historic event in the history of the Afrikaaners and was called 'Die Groot Trek', which can be translated as 'The Big Move' - inventive people, those Afrikaaners. The motivation for this voyage was discontentment under the British rule (my father's people), and a desire for a superior quality of life in greener pastures.

And so, almost two hundred years later, with the blood of the 'Voortrekker' (Afrikaans word for pioneer, it basically means 'forward mover', I know, inventive hey?) flowing through my veins, I too embarked on a 'Groot Trek', a journey of more than 3600 km across a great country to escape Pennsylvanian rule and to search for greener pastures in the distant land of Idaho.

OK, so Pennsylvanian rule wasn't too awful, but hell, not being able to buy more than 12 beers from a bottle shop unless it's a distributor and being forced to shop at three separate venues for wine, beer and food because it's illegal to put (1) food and beer in the same store, (2) food and wine in the same store and (3) wine and beer in the same store, is as good a reason as any to get the hell out of there. But I certainly couldn't count looking for greener pastures as a motivation for my relocation since Pennsylvania is by far the greenest place I have ever seen in my life. Instead the driving force of our 'trek' was my husband's desire to hang out with the largest concentration of nuclear reactors in the world - and our desire to make a better life in spite of that.

And so began the 2000 mile, 9 day journey across Pennsylvania, Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Wisconsin, Minnesota, South Dakota, Wyoming and finally Idaho. And here follows the highlights of that expedition.

Chicago, Illinois
Our first endeavour was to get out of Pennsylvania, and manoeuvre through Ohio and Indiana as quickly as humanly possible. We achieved that in 9 hours, arriving at our first stop-over, the eminently magnificent Chicago. We spent 2 and a half days (in a blistering heat-wave) in this astonishing city and that was simply not nearly enough. The outstanding architecture, the lake, the pier, the food, drink, music, culture, shopping, vibrant atmosphere were all truly splendid. The only slight disappointment (for me at least) was that I was unable to swing a visit to the Oprah show, which has been a lifelong dream, but she went and retired before I could get there. (And I thought she loved South Africans). To top off a perfect visit there was a massive fireworks display off Navy Pier, while we were there listening to a band, that would rival any 4th of July display I've seen (and I've seen some pretty awesome ones).

Chicago at night viewed from Navy Pier

Milwaukee, Wisconsin
A short drive up Lake Michigan brought us to our second stop-over, the historic Germanic town, Milwaukee. It also happens to be the home of American beer and thus was an essential point of interest for us. To top it off, Wisconsin is America's dairy (as in cheese everywhere). We did well to hit 2 breweries in our single evening there and sampled cheese to our heart's content. Here too we witnessed a fireworks display above the lake as we stumbled back to our hotel after tasting as many beer samples as we bravely could.

One of many Germanic style buildings on Old World Third Street

Madison, Wisconsin
A quick stop off for lunch was all we could afford, time wise, in Madison but I'm certainly glad we did. The Wisconsin state capital is a lovely place and luckily we arrived while they had their farmer's market (more cheese) surrounding the Capitol Building. It's clean and people seem so happy to live there, and the sky, wow, the sky in Wisconsin is always so artistically dotted with white cloud puffs that it seems, at every minute, like a master piece.

The domed State Capitol building

Minneapolis, Minnesota
After seeing some of the loveliest cities in America I hadn't stored up much anticipation for Minneapolis, I guessed it would be big and dreary, and to tell the truth, since the city's main attraction is 'Mall of America,' I expected to hate it. What a surprise to find such a perfectly maintained, walkable, modern downtown area. On our first night here we witnessed yet another incredible fireworks display above the Mississippi River and we were starting to feel rather self-important with each city welcoming us in such flamboyant style. We went to see a theatre production at the incredible Guthrie Theatre. The show was great but the building blew my mind. It's interesting that Minneapolis has more theatres per capita than anywhere in the U.S with the exception of New York City. We dined on sushi in a swanky Japanese restaurant and we were totally captivated by this glorious city. But seeing that the buildings are all connected by aerial walkway I'm pretty sure its not a place to visit in the winter.

Minneapolis is full of flowers, pavements cafes and those winter walkways

Badlands, South Dakota
I was rather excited to discover that on our intended route lay the Badlands National Park. The 6 National Parks I have visited so far, have all been truly incredible experiences so I was keen to add another to the list. The name, Badlands, entices me so, much like Death Valley. The name was given by the Sioux Indians, who inventively, (they have this in common with the Afrikaaners) named it Bad Land because of the lack of water, rough terrain, scant vegetation and lack of firewood. But even if you try to visualise the most desolate landscape imaginable you will not be prepared for the eerie scene that dramatically awaits you after crossing most of South Dakota's rolling green plains.


Ah, so I wouldn't grow my tomatoes here



Mount Rushmore, South Dakota
What road trip across America would be complete without the quintessential visit to the iconic Mount Rushmore National Memorial. It does not disappoint! In true American style the setting, in the magnificent Black Hills, is idyllic and the highly visible location puts the ostentatious sculpture of America's most beloved leaders on display for hundreds of meters. It's a really exciting drive if you come up Iron Mountain Road because, besides being incredibly scenic, you can see glimpses of the face carvings from about 20 miles away and you keep trying to catch views of it, like kids trying to see the ocean on a trip to the coast.

Georgie, Tommy, Abe and Teddy

Wyoming
Having been in Wyoming before I knew of its immense beauty so I was surprised that the worst scenery of the trip consisted of the flat monotonous grasslands of eastern Wyoming. It's tedious and desolate with uninteresting gas station towns and endless industrial drilling sites with vast nothingness in between. After many hours of this depressing and uninspiring landscape we finally arrived at the beginning of the Rockies. Once we hit the Togwotee Pass I dismissed the bland images of eastern Wyoming and began to marvel at the curvaceous landscape. Nothing can compare though, to when you first catch a glance of the snow-capped Teton peaks as you crest the pass, it just takes your breath away. This is, to me, the most beautiful area of the entire country and I'm awed every time I get to spend time here.

The majestic backdrop of the Teton Mountain Range

Idaho
Once we hit Jackson, a delightful resort town in Western Wyoming we knew we were on the home straight. We took the Teton Pass which is where you cross the border into Idaho and followed the Snake River right into Idaho Falls which is where we'll be based for next 18 odd months of our lives.

Following the Snake River

It's part of the American dream to do such a road trip and although we didn't quite go coast to coast it was an amazing journey, our 'Groot Trek', and another adventure in our American experience.

Over Yonder Hill I'm Gonna Get Me Some BBQ

I haven't been nearly as conscientious about writing about my travels as I had hoped. I've been to New York City over 10 times and still haven't written a single post about it, but sometimes it's the little towns that inspire one to get writing again and that is what Port Matilda, Pennsylvania did for me...

A few week-ends ago a friend of mine suggested the mad idea of riding our bicycles to Port Matilda. Normally I only ride my bike when the car is broken, or there is no petrol in it, or when there is nowhere cheap to park, or when Ivor and I can't decide who will be the designated driver for the evening, but I certainly don't do it for ... fun!

Don't be fooled... 8 miles means still many km's to go

The draw card however, was the opportunity to eat at Clem's Wood-Fired BBQ. One of the best things about America (certainly 1 of the top 5 in my book) is barbecue. While every country seems to have their own take on cooking meat outdoors, the American version of slow cooking meat for many hours over a wood fire is ridiculously delectable, so delectable, in fact, that I willingly agreed to ride my rusty purple Walmart bicycle 12 miles (19.311233 km) to Port Matilda. http://www.clemsfire.com/ This type of barbecue should not, however, be confused with the other American version of throwing a hamburger patty on a gas grill and calling it a barbeque.

 

Bellefonte Central Bicycle Path

The town of Port Matilda is in fact, and I apologise to the 638 (yes I looked that up on wikipedia) residents, a shithole. I didn't know that yet and I actually quite liked the quaint sound of the name and so, on a sunny Saturday morning, our group of 4 set off. We met at Sunset Park in State College and started down the Bellefonte Central bicycle path. It's a lovely path that I had never used before and I was almost enjoying myself as we weaved through the golf course at Toftrees. The major uphill out of Happy Valley was a climb of over 600 feet. I've always joked about the 'mountains' in Pennsylvania being merely hills but I withdraw that now that I've pedaled over them. There was, I must admit, some swearing and gnashing of teeth but the view from the top smoothed away those tired leg muscles and woe.

An accurate representation of the size of town

It took longer than the 70 minutes Google promised but we arrived in Port Matilda in time for lunch and I was rather looking forward to over-eating after my morning workout. We looked out for Clem's but couldn't see it anywhere. We rode, up this way and that, covering the whole of the 0.6 square miles that makes up Port Matilda at least 3 times. We used the iPhone and the GPS but each time, while technology said we were there, we couldn't see anything that resembled a wood-fire barbecue restaurant at all. Actually besides the gas station and the pizza joint there wasn't much else to speak of. Eventually we saw 2 of the 638 locals and asked them for assistance and they announced that Clem's had moved 2 years previously to Tyrone (a larger, but equally shitty town) 20 miles further down the road. The swearing, gnashing of teeth and woe returned. We unrelentingly released our fury on our friend whose suggestion it had been until she offered an alternative.

Uphills!

Plan B was to go to Way Fruit Farm. We stopped at the gas station for some cold energy drinks before heading off for the 3 mile trip. I decided to double check Google's directions with a local to make sure it, too, hadn't moved. An old man was sitting outside the store at the gas station (what else is there to do on a Saturday afternoon in Port Matilda) and when I asked him for directions to the Farm he took one look at my bicycle and began to chuckle. "Good luck getting there on that thing," he snorted. At least 2 and a half miles of the 3 mile journey were brutal uphills over a mountain. I'm sure that, although the 2 boys insisted they were stopping every 100 yards or so just to wait for us girls to catch up, they were, in fact, struggling too. I pushed my bike and felt no shame. About 20 minutes into the journey a large truck pulled up alongside me and the old man from the gas station waved happily while laughing and offering a tow. I'm pretty sure he only left the social hub of the gas station to have a good chuckle at us.

Almost there...

Eventually we reached the top of the mountain and saw the sign for Way Fruit Farm with the directions "bottom of hill turn left". It's incredible how quickly one can descend a mountain that took an hour to climb. We were there in 3 minutes.

Way Fruit Farm and our trusty transport

We dashed to the Way Cafe where we gulped down fresh deli sandwiches chased by a bounty of ice-cream. When we were sufficiently replenished we wandered through the country crafts and abundant farm produce in the store. Way Fruit Farm is a sixth generation family owned and run farm which started in 1872 and well worth the trip (by car) for anyone in the area. It was strawberry season while we were there and many families and couples were out in the field picking their own strawberries for purchase. I however, rejected the urge to procure the many delicious offerings purely because the idea of cycling the 12 miles home with a fresh pork roast and a pound of apples was a little more than I could bear. http://www.wayfruitfarm.com/

The way home was tedious but we managed to get there before the rain. All in all we did about 50km and it took 7 hours. I thought I may never forgive my friend for her mad suggestion but when my bike was locked up and my feet were up on the couch I realsied that I had, indeed, enjoyed a wonderful day.

The gorgeous green of Pennsylvania

"You want me to live where?"

The Snake River in Idaho Falls with the Mormon Temple in the background

There comes a time in every marriage when you think "What have I gotten myself into?" My moment came when my darling husband informed me that we were to spend the summer (almost three months) in IDAHO FALLS (I didn't even know there was a town by that name). So I opened up my trusted 'Rough Guide to the U.S.A', turned to the chapter on Idaho and read: "Only state capital Boise provides any urban interest, as Idaho Falls and Pocotello are both drab" ... uh oh ... Boise is a 5 hour drive away! It also didn't help that the flight from State College to Idaho Falls is about the same price as a flight from State College to Barcelona, Paris or Athens but all the same, I packed my bags and my sunny disposition and headed to the Pacific Northwest.

The reason for this temporary relocation to the opposite side of the country is that Ivor was offered a summer internship at the Idaho National Laboratory "a science-based, applied engineering national laboratory dedicated to supporting the U.S. Department of Energy's missions in nuclear and energy research, science, and national defense" (www.inl.gov). It was here that the world's first nuclear reactor was built and more than 50 nuclear reactors have been built here for testing over the last 60 years. Since this is the biggest concentration of nuclear reactors on the planet it makes sense that the area is somewhat remote and that the town of Idaho Falls might be of negligible 'urban' interest.

The gorgeous Snake River

Luckily for me, Idaho Falls is not nearly as 'drab' as I expected. For starters, the town is instantly beautified by the Snake River running past down town. The chilly river flows west into Idaho from Wyoming and there are ample water activities available including excellent rafting , fishing and boating. The name of the town refers to the white water falls occurring  below the first bridge built across the river. Now that the river diverts into numerous irrigation canals most of the falls run over concrete blocks but it is still really pretty. The area on each side of the river is known as the Green Belt and it's a great place for biking, jogging (no, I don't do this) and inline skating. In the summer they have numerous weekend festivals here where stalls are set up to sell arts and crafts as well as all types of [greasy American] food, accompanied by live entertainment. On any day of the week you will find kids feeding the ducks or locals having picnics on the banks of the river. I was pleased to noticed that many people take full advantage of the Green Belt in the summer and they love to be outdoors enjoying the glorious weather.

The wall of International Reds

Within the first 2 days of being in Idaho Falls I was taken to, and immediately fell in love with, Vino Rosso. This wine bar/ live music venue/ cafe/ shop is not something you would expect to find in a city described as 'drab' so I instantly felt much better about the prospect of residing there. Vino Rosso is a beautiful wine shop that sells a comprehensive selection (around a thousand bottles) of wines from all over the world. I even found some of my South African favourites. They have wine tastings every Wednesday and I was there (almost) every Wednesday, savouring their selection of 5 wines per week, from a specific region or interesting varietal. My palate retains fond memories of the Rhine Valley Rieslings and the California Zinfandels. For Ivor they had an ever changing selection of interesting beers on tap and they always offered delicious appetizers.

10 steps from my front door

We rented a house in the South East of Town right opposite a canal. It is remarkable how the system of canals distribute the water of the Snake River in the area of Idaho Falls, turning what used to be a desert into fertile agricultural land. This area is one of the most productive agricultural  regions of the country producing beets, peas, onions and of course ... the Famous Idaho Potatoes. The town is fairly small and surrounding it are the numerous agricultural and well as horse farms. I did see a lot of potatoes growing and was surprised by the lovely flowers they produced (apparently Marie Antoinette insisted on growing potatoes in her garden so she could use the flowers in her hair.) Beyond the farms are mountains in almost every direction, some topped with snow even in the middle of July. A magnificent backdrop.

Girls Day Out

What more can a girl need - a beautiful environment, an endless supply of wine and potatoes? Well I was blessed even further by meeting 3 young woman all of whom have recently moved to Idaho Falls because their spouses also work for INL. We became thick and fast friends and arranged delightful, and sometimes (OK, most of the time) wine fuelled adventures. Some of these included a trip to the Potato Museum (...when in Idaho...), photographic excursions to an Arabian horse farm, picnics in the park, a visit to the zoo, road trips, rafting, lunches and a fuzzy karaoke adventure at Ford's Bar.

The Harley Dealership on Broadway Avenue

Idaho Falls has all the usual American town traits; the stock standard mall complete with Macy's and Barnes and Noble, the Walmarts on either side of town, the strip malls, the same cluster of fast food joints - Wendy's, McD's, Arby's, Taco Bell, etc. The streets look the same as any town, in any State, in America but the thing that tells you, that you are now in the West, is the size of the vehicles. There are more SUV's and bakkies (trucks) than regular cars, and here bigger (and louder) apparently is better. It is also the land of Harley Davidson. The open roads and big skies seem to be a biker's paradise. What I like is the immense sense of space. Although you can see snow capped mountains in the distance, the town itself and surrounding farms are completely flat and you can see for miles. Plus if you do indeed take to the road, magnificent scenery awaits you in every direction, whether into Idaho itself or the surrounding States of Utah, Wyoming, Montana or Oregon. Idaho Falls is the gateway to the majestic West and we took some amazing trips which you'll have to wait to read about.

Now we are are back in State College, but next summer, when the INL internship rolls around again and my darling husband informs me he wants me to live in IDAHO FALLS for another 3 months my reaction will be ... "I can't wait!"

The Official Highlights Package

A week and a half ago we celebrated the first anniversary of our moving to America. It's incredible how quickly the first year has gone, but its appalling to see how little I've blogged about our experiences here. I keep thinking about things I want to write about and then feel b[l]ogged down by how far behind I am. Hence I've decided to do a quick catch-up in a 'highlights package'. The idea is to list the places we've been to and then to include one photo and one sentence based on the highlight of that place.  

State College, PA 
After living in the same city for the first 30 years of my life, moving to a new town is exciting, having that town in a different country, continent and hemisphere is an adventure and living somewhere where it SNOWS is, to me (an African), a highlight.

Our footprints in the first evening snow (in October 2009) outside our apartment

New York City, NY
To choose only one highlight from this awesome city is tricky but having the opportunity to play in the Penn State Philharmonic Orchestra at Carnegie Hall in March 2010 takes this one.

The Isaac Stern Auditorium at Carnegie Hall

Sugarbush, VT
There is lots of good skiing on the East Coast, and being high up on a snowy mountain is always stunning, but the view from Sugarbush beats all the places I have skied before.

Clouds settling between the mountain peaks at Sugarbush Ski Resort

San Diego, CA
Awesome town with so many highlights but sunset on the Pacific Ocean is hard to beat.

My silhouette next to Crystal Pier at Pacific Beach

Los Angeles, CA
L.A. is a huge city with lots to see and do but the highlight of this trip was seeing an old friend a week before her wedding.

Cheese and wine with the girls

Pittsburgh, PA
I totally love Pittsburgh but without a doubt the highlight is Phipps Conservatory.
http://phipps.conservatory.org/

A flower on the awesomely named Passion Vine

Denver, CO
A flight delay caused us a surprise overnight stay in this fabulous city and, thanks to some insider info, the highlight of this stay was having a few at the Falling Rock Taphouse where they have a selection of over 75 beers on tap and more than 130 bottled varieties.
http://www.fallingrocktaphouse.com/

The best place to have a beer in America

Idaho Falls, ID
A 10 week stay, over the summer, made this town our temporary home and it was the first time in my life that I've had the opportunity to live in a place that has a river running through it.

The Snake river as it runs through down town Idaho Falls

Craters of the Moon National Monument, ID
Walking over the 2000 year old lava of a gigantic volcano is quite an experience but climbing through the caves and tunnels that the lava has formed is certainly a highlight of this strange landscape.

Halfway through Indian Tunnel, made completely of molten lava

Swan Valley, ID
The highlight of visiting Swan Valley, as the Snake River cuts through it, is proving my ignorant self wrong. I had automatically assumed that Idaho was going to be a dull place of no interest and what a joy to discover that it is indeed a gorgeous place to visit and live.

The South Fork of the Snake river in Swan Valley

Jackson, WY
I said a few mean things about Jackson before going there but this was a very surprising town and it's certainly the quaintest American town I've come across. The highlight is seeing the creative use of elk horns in the 4 arches at each corner of the central park (consisting of about 5000 elk horns each). Normally I'm not a fan of animal horns but since these fall off the animals naturally in late winter I'm not opposed to their use.

Ivor admiring the massive arches made of elk horns

Grand Teton National Park, WY
The Teton Mountains are possibly the most magnificent I've seen but I guess the highlight (although at the time it was a lowlight) was hiking here in mid-summer in shorts and sandals not expecting there to be SO much snow (I'm from Africa people.)

Ivor pushing on through the snow nearing the top of Table Mountain

 
Yellowstone National Park, WY
Every moment of Yellowstone is a highlight but doing a short hike along the Yellowstone Grand Canyon takes you away from the 90 000 summer visitors and it's like having the whole area to yourself.

The Grand Canyon of Yellowstone as seen from the hike to Sublime Point

Salmon, ID
The drive to Salmon is so lovely and the mountains there are pretty nice too but the highlight was not only discovering Williams Lake, a little lake tucked away behind the mountains but being given a free boat tour by a generous, friendly and somewhat intoxicated (at 11am) local.

Williams Lake from the boat jetty

Moab - Arches and Canyonlands National Parks, UT
Like Yellowstone every moment is so spectacular but I'll give this highlight to the 4X4 excursion down the canyon in Canyonlands, it was thrilling and terrifying at the same time and the views down the sheer cliff faces were unforgettable

The switchbacks down Shafer Canyon

Well that's it in a nutshell. I have plans to write in depth about each place and, of course, I have plans for many new trips so keep reading...